French 1930s Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin RingIrene Byrne & Co
An exceptional French 1930s Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin engagement ring. The ring features a central 1.70ct old European cut diamond contrasted by mid-dark green emeralds surrounding the diamond set in platinum and 18ct yellow gold. The inner band is stamped THM with French control marks on the outer band. This ring is one of those rare, exceptional pieces made at a time in history when Trabert & Hoeffer merged with the French jewellery powerhouse Mauboussin in 1935 to keep the company out of ruin.
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Designer: TRABERT & HOEFFER MAUBOUSSIN
Gemstones: Diamond & Emerald
Cut: Old European Brilliant Cut Diamond and Rectangular Shape Emeralds
Weight & Colour: Diamond = 1.70ct, J-K / VS2
16 Emeralds = 0.30ct Mid-Dark Green Emeralds
Material: 18ct Yellow Gold & Platinum
Gem Studies Laboratory Valuation
Finger Size: N 1/2
* Free Resizing Available - So that you receive the perfect fit, please let us know your finger size by placing it in the "special instructions" when checking out of the cart (a complimentary service we provide, at no additional charge).
This period saw a departure of the carefree flapper style of the 20s and a new decade began with the glamour that oozed out of Hollywood. The slim line and fine details in rings and bracelets seen in the 20s were expanded on and bracelets became wider while rings became more elongated both horizontally and vertically on the fingers.
American designers at this time were looking for inspiration directly at French jewellery houses interpreting their designs for modern Americans. Trabert & Hoeffer, joined together to form their company in 1926 and began importing designs from France as well as copying French styling (which the majority of American jewellery houses did at the time).
Their company rose in presence amongst the elite with the likes of Tiffany, Cartier and Mauboussin until the infamous stock market crash of 1929 followed closely by the death of Randolph Trabert in 1930. The Great Depression saw quick change in the jewellery industry and Hoeffer saw marketing as a way to survive, reinvigorating American consumers by lending out jewellery designs to major Hollywood production companies such as Paramount to feature the latest in his contemporary designs on film. Other marketing strategies included creating an ultra sleek Park Avenue headquarters and expanding operations to locations potential clients of means went to relax such as Palm Beach, Los Angeles, Atlantic City and later Miami Beach, Chicago and Beverly Hills.
The Parisian jewellery house Mauboussin, made some unlucky changes to the company at this time by opening several stores in New York and Palm Beach which coincided with the 1929 stock market crash. Having imported a large quantity of jewellery to America they faced serious financial trouble, forcing them to sell off most of their stock. Struggling with massive financial loss Mauboussin entered into collaboration with Trabert & Hoeffer, keeping the Mauboussin name alive and adding true French sophistication to their American company.
The jewellery industry was again crippled by World War II with the access to platinum and precious gems being imposed on the US with a luxury tax with the majority of jewellers unable to keep their doors open. At this time the US army took over hotels where Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin had retail outlets though Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin remained open and adapted to the change by redesigning customers existing gems and precious metals into sleek, new modern designs. by 1953 Mauboussin was able to continue their operations in the US and eventually returned to their former independent glory breaking associations with Trabert & Hoeffer in 1953.